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Kaia Gerber’s first fashion collection is an ode to 90s minimalism

At just 21 years of age, Kaia Gerber has already put her name to a seriously impressive list of accolades. One of the most emblematic supermodels of our time — following in the footsteps of her mother Cindy Crawford, one of the original 90s supers who gave way to the term — she’s won over […]

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Photographing teenage girlhood in the late 90s

Angela Hill is the co-founder of London’s favourite independent bookstore IDEA. Alongside David Owen, she’s been in the business of collecting and selling ultra-rare, ultra-out-there photo books since the late 1990s, when the pair were first enlisted to stock vintage tomes in the now-closed (but forever revolutionary) Colette store in Paris. These days, in addition […]

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Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation is a transatlantic love affair

Yesterday evening, the storm that swallowed Paris Fashion Week took pause at Jardin des Plantes. Under the clearing clouds, the pathways of the Parisian park—where botanists cross-pollinate to create remarkable hybrid blooms—acted as a runway for Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation. Creative Director Matthew Williams consulted Fashion Editor Carine Roitfeld this season, for her exquisite styling […]

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Durability and desire intertwine in the latest collection from Hermès

The white light of the desert is unforgiving; it radiates from all angles above, and is reflected by boundless sands below. In the Tennis Club de Paris, Hermès presented its Spring 2023 collection in the blunt light of a manufactured desert dune, reaffirming the house’s long-standing ability to deliver on such promises of stamina in […]

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Balenciaga’s Paris Fashion Week show was provocative—does that make it art?

“The more you try to be yourself, the more you get punched in your face,” read Balenciaga’s Paris Fashion Week show notes. And who better to illustrate this point than Kanye West? The musician-turned-designer was the opener for Demna’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation, stomping down the mud-drenched runway (275 meters of black peat, sourced from a […]

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For Spring/Summer 2023, Dior subverts garments of power

From Jean Paul Gaultier to Alexander McQueen, to Thom Brown to Balenciaga to Yohji Yamamoto, the crinoline has appeared in modern high fashion time and time again. It’s been subverted in every which way: exposed bare-bones, cropped at mid-thigh, slashed with cut-outs, rendered translucent. Also known as the hoop skirt, the Victorian mainstay is a […]

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Saint Laurent reimagines its motifs, and the art that informed them

Martha Graham’s Lamentation premiered in New York City, at Maxine Elliot’s Theater, back in 1930. The solo performance was carried out almost entirely from a seated position, with its dancer swathed in a tube of violet fabric. It was a visualization of the essence of grief—the tension in the elastic jersey represented a struggle, however […]

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Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2023 makes the brown paper bag an object of elegance

This past Saturday, 400 guests sat on the border of a resin-mottled runway, designed by New York-based Italian architect and urban planner Gaetano Pesce, at Matthieu Blazy’s highly-anticipated Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2023 presentation. The show began with an echoing guitar chord, guided by a wandering, whistled melody—a tune reminiscent of an unnamed vagabond meandering into […]

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The knife-edge subculture of Hedi Slimane’s Celine

The Celine woman is so cool that if you removed all the cool Celine clothes, she’d still be cool. During his time heading up Dior Homme, Saint Laurent and, since 2018, Celine, creative director Hedi Slimane has proven his ability time and time again to create or recreate subcultures so well they permeate not only […]

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Does sticking to the Met Gala theme really matter?

The best themed parties tend to be the ones where you really go to town and splash out on the perfect outfit, down to hair, make-up, accessories and witty Instagram posts to match. Not a single dodgy Amazon get-up in sight, thank you very much. This is the same line of thinking that celebrities should […]