Miu Miu SS23 was the definition of truly meaningful fashion

Miuccia Prada is fashion’s premiere philosopher. Often, her design process is less about toying with fabric or collecting images, but rather about the very act of thinking about how clothes can reflect a cultural mood, informed by her thinking and reading about design, art, news, even fashion. This summer, she must have been thinking a […]


Louis Vuitton zooms in on the details for SS23

“Must be the reason why I’m king of my castle,” played on repeat at Louis Vuitton’s SS23 show. The Wamdue Project club hit perfectly resonated with Nicolas Ghesquière’s collection. He is the king of his castle, the flagship LVMH maison founded 168 years ago, which will be renewing his contract next year. Which is why […]


Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation is a transatlantic love affair

Yesterday evening, the storm that swallowed Paris Fashion Week took pause at Jardin des Plantes. Under the clearing clouds, the pathways of the Parisian park—where botanists cross-pollinate to create remarkable hybrid blooms—acted as a runway for Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation. Creative Director Matthew Williams consulted Fashion Editor Carine Roitfeld this season, for her exquisite styling […]


Balenciaga’s Paris Fashion Week show was provocative—does that make it art?

“The more you try to be yourself, the more you get punched in your face,” read Balenciaga’s Paris Fashion Week show notes. And who better to illustrate this point than Kanye West? The musician-turned-designer was the opener for Demna’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation, stomping down the mud-drenched runway (275 meters of black peat, sourced from a […]


For Spring/Summer 2023, Dior subverts garments of power

From Jean Paul Gaultier to Alexander McQueen, to Thom Brown to Balenciaga to Yohji Yamamoto, the crinoline has appeared in modern high fashion time and time again. It’s been subverted in every which way: exposed bare-bones, cropped at mid-thigh, slashed with cut-outs, rendered translucent. Also known as the hoop skirt, the Victorian mainstay is a […]


Saint Laurent reimagines its motifs, and the art that informed them

Martha Graham’s Lamentation premiered in New York City, at Maxine Elliot’s Theater, back in 1930. The solo performance was carried out almost entirely from a seated position, with its dancer swathed in a tube of violet fabric. It was a visualization of the essence of grief—the tension in the elastic jersey represented a struggle, however […]