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Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation is a transatlantic love affair

Yesterday evening, the storm that swallowed Paris Fashion Week took pause at Jardin des Plantes. Under the clearing clouds, the pathways of the Parisian park—where botanists cross-pollinate to create remarkable hybrid blooms—acted as a runway for Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation. Creative Director Matthew Williams consulted Fashion Editor Carine Roitfeld this season, for her exquisite styling […]

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Balenciaga’s Paris Fashion Week show was provocative—does that make it art?

“The more you try to be yourself, the more you get punched in your face,” read Balenciaga’s Paris Fashion Week show notes. And who better to illustrate this point than Kanye West? The musician-turned-designer was the opener for Demna’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation, stomping down the mud-drenched runway (275 meters of black peat, sourced from a […]

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For Spring/Summer 2023, Dior subverts garments of power

From Jean Paul Gaultier to Alexander McQueen, to Thom Brown to Balenciaga to Yohji Yamamoto, the crinoline has appeared in modern high fashion time and time again. It’s been subverted in every which way: exposed bare-bones, cropped at mid-thigh, slashed with cut-outs, rendered translucent. Also known as the hoop skirt, the Victorian mainstay is a […]

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Saint Laurent reimagines its motifs, and the art that informed them

Martha Graham’s Lamentation premiered in New York City, at Maxine Elliot’s Theater, back in 1930. The solo performance was carried out almost entirely from a seated position, with its dancer swathed in a tube of violet fabric. It was a visualization of the essence of grief—the tension in the elastic jersey represented a struggle, however […]

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Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2023 makes the brown paper bag an object of elegance

This past Saturday, 400 guests sat on the border of a resin-mottled runway, designed by New York-based Italian architect and urban planner Gaetano Pesce, at Matthieu Blazy’s highly-anticipated Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2023 presentation. The show began with an echoing guitar chord, guided by a wandering, whistled melody—a tune reminiscent of an unnamed vagabond meandering into […]