There was a period towards the beginning of the pandemic when every conversation in fashion appeared to revolve around its imminent restructure: about the lessons this industry was supposedly learning about slowing down and reducing its output, about enforcing a shift in the cultural calendar and prioritising creative values. “Do you remember quarantine?” asks Marc […]
Bella Hadid closing Coperni’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation with a spray-on dress was a show-stopping moment that has rippled across the internet. It’s been spoofed on TikTok, memed on Instagram pages, and reposted liberally by just about anyone with a passing interest in fashion. The now-viral moment marked the brand’s ascension to the ranks of runway […]
On the last night of fashion month — during which we have watched countless shows, spoken to an array of designers and, generally, tried to make sense of where fashion is heading in the near future — we went to see what Ye (FKA Kanye West) had in store for his ninth collection for Yeezy. […]
Yesterday evening, the storm that swallowed Paris Fashion Week took pause at Jardin des Plantes. Under the clearing clouds, the pathways of the Parisian park—where botanists cross-pollinate to create remarkable hybrid blooms—acted as a runway for Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation. Creative Director Matthew Williams consulted Fashion Editor Carine Roitfeld this season, for her exquisite styling […]
The white light of the desert is unforgiving; it radiates from all angles above, and is reflected by boundless sands below. In the Tennis Club de Paris, Hermès presented its Spring 2023 collection in the blunt light of a manufactured desert dune, reaffirming the house’s long-standing ability to deliver on such promises of stamina in […]
“The more you try to be yourself, the more you get punched in your face,” read Balenciaga’s Paris Fashion Week show notes. And who better to illustrate this point than Kanye West? The musician-turned-designer was the opener for Demna’s Spring/Summer 2023 presentation, stomping down the mud-drenched runway (275 meters of black peat, sourced from a […]
From Jean Paul Gaultier to Alexander McQueen, to Thom Brown to Balenciaga to Yohji Yamamoto, the crinoline has appeared in modern high fashion time and time again. It’s been subverted in every which way: exposed bare-bones, cropped at mid-thigh, slashed with cut-outs, rendered translucent. Also known as the hoop skirt, the Victorian mainstay is a […]
Martha Graham’s Lamentation premiered in New York City, at Maxine Elliot’s Theater, back in 1930. The solo performance was carried out almost entirely from a seated position, with its dancer swathed in a tube of violet fabric. It was a visualization of the essence of grief—the tension in the elastic jersey represented a struggle, however […]
This past Saturday, 400 guests sat on the border of a resin-mottled runway, designed by New York-based Italian architect and urban planner Gaetano Pesce, at Matthieu Blazy’s highly-anticipated Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2023 presentation. The show began with an echoing guitar chord, guided by a wandering, whistled melody—a tune reminiscent of an unnamed vagabond meandering into […]
The Celine woman is so cool that if you removed all the cool Celine clothes, she’d still be cool. During his time heading up Dior Homme, Saint Laurent and, since 2018, Celine, creative director Hedi Slimane has proven his ability time and time again to create or recreate subcultures so well they permeate not only […]